Fish Type: Crappie Price: $14.00
Overall, I would highly recommend this Fish Fry.
| Fish Score: Excellent Potato Score: Excellent Tartar Score: Excellent Bread Score: Excellent Miscellaneous Score: Good |  |
Comment: Hoy crap! What happened to Dexters!? It used to just be a divey little spot with peeling linoleum and stained ceiling tiles that served and under-the-radar but amazing Fish Fry. My how things have changed. They now have fancy-schmancy beer boards, new flooring, and neon liquor shelves. Thank god theres still some of those stained ceiling tiles or I might not even know I was in the same place. This aint your grandpas Dexters.
All kidding aside, most of the changes made at Dexters are for the better. While they exterior looks the same as it always has the interior now feels clean and modern, and of course, they still have their Best of Madison Friday Fish Fry although even that has evolved somewhat. Ive always been a sucker for Dexters bluegill, and truth be told thats why I came today. To my surprise not only was the gill absent from the specials but so was the lake perch! Standing in was what has come to be known as Dexters Wednesday Menu which has crappie instead of the other freshwater-ers. I was astonished, but since Id wanted to try the crappie (but never go out on Wednesdays) I seized the opportunity to do so.
Like its freshwater friends the crappie isnt cheap at $14, but the portion is handsome and the plate is filled out. Crappie looks a lot like lake perch although the fillets are slightly larger, thicker, and more oval-shaped. In addition, the meat tastes more fishy than perch and isnt as flaky. The mushier texture isnt bad, but it just doesnt quite live up to its counterparts which is probably one reason its rarely seen as a Friday special. Of course, its home to the same breading as the rest of Dexs fish (cod aside) which gives the limp fish something firm to hold on to. All things considered its still very good, but a step below the lake perch, and a few more from the bluegill.
Thankfully, the sides are the same as always and the waffle fries were as amazing as ever. Sure, the portion seemed trimmed, but the seasoning was dead on and the time the spent in the fryer was just right. The tartar was also in the zone, although appeared to be chunkier than usual. The robust blend did the fish right with plenty of zip and no overbearing flavors.
Dexters has also historically been one of the few places in town willing to serve rye with their fish and the big half slice stayed the course. It was stanky and fresh and well-suited to the homemade coleslaw. While the onion quotient has been dialed down this slaw is still as diverse as they come although not the best around. You cant win em all.
Holy crap(pie)! Dexters is still great even with all the changes theyve made. While its not a dive anymore it still has a charm that sets it apart from chain restaurants or overly modern places that feel cold, and of course, their Fish Fry is still amazing. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry but do hope the perch and bluegill return at some point.
www.dexterspubmadison.com/
301 North Street
Madison, WI 53704
(608) 244-3535
