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Fish Type: Walleye     Price: $14.00

Overall, I would highly recommend this Fish Fry.

Fish Score: Excellent
Potato Score: Good
Tartar Score: Excellent
Bread Score: Excellent
Miscellaneous Score: Good

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Comment: There was a day when Dexter’s was just your average corner bar with your typical bar food. Back then there was nothing really exciting about Dexter’s except for some occasional intensity on the volleyball court. In those days Dexter’s was known as the Sandlot, and was a nice neighborhood spot, but not a destination by any stretch of the imagination. Those days are long gone in 2013, and Dexter’s Pub has become THE place to be (on Friday nights at least).

Dexter’s has grown, morphed if you will, into the new age Wisconsin tavern with flair. They are slinging high quality suds and more fish than their tiny kitchen was ever meant to handle. This has resulted in long waits on your average Friday night, and even longer waits this Friday when Toppling Goliath Brewery was in attendance as part of the Great Taste of the Midwest festivities. It was more chaotic than normal in the small bar, but since our friends Sean and Sasha were moving west (and wanted go out with a bang) we stuck it out.

It was a good 75-90 minutes before our light-up coaster went off (Dexter’s actually has those now), and we were shown to our table for four. Everything went pretty smoothly from that point on as the wait staff and kitchen were in high gear. The fish took about 15 minutes to arrive, but was nice and hot when it did. My walleye was on the small side (walleye-wise) but was still more than adequate. The sweet fish was flaky and moist, with a mild flavor that let the breading take charge. The breading was light and crispy and really completed the flavor profile thanks to Dexter’s signature subtle seasoning. It was an excellent preparation and definitely write-up worthy.

Usually I opt for the waffle fries when I fish at Dexter’s, but something in me wanted to branch out this Friday (perhaps it was the effects from four hoppy Toppling Goliath beers?). For whatever reason, the brew fries struck me as appropriate this week, and with their crunchy coating they were. The batter made them feel a little heartier than your average fries, and while the waffles are probably still a better option the brews were very satisfying.

A light, but thick, homemade tartar played bow to the fish’s cello. It had just the right zip to offset the flavorful fish, and together they played a beautiful tune. It was a harmonious melody that tickled the tongue and prepared the palate for even further enjoyment.

Enjoyment in this case came in the form of a half-slice of rye and Dexter’s homemade slaw. While the slaw isn’t necessarily music to the ears its subtle vinegar base and onion-y overtones blend well with the rye, adding a note to the meal that would otherwise be absent.

A great beer selection and great food have become the name of the game at Dexter’s, and everyone just seems to love it. They have become one of the toughest tickets in town on Friday nights, and if you go there will likely be decent wait, but at least there will be plenty to keep your taste buds jumping. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry and still think it’s one of the best Madison has to offer.



www.dexterspubmadison.com/
301 North Street
Madison, WI 53704

(608) 244-3535