Fish Type: Bluegill Price: $14.00
Overall, I would recommend this Fish Fry.
| Fish Score: Excellent Potato Score: Good Tartar Score: Good Bread Score: Poor Miscellaneous Score: Good |  |
Comment: The Friday after Thanksgiving is usually one of the slower Fridays of the year as far as Fish Fry is concerned. Maybe its because people are tired from all the shopping, or are just too zoned in on turkey, but whatever the reason its generally a slow one. On both of our previous visits to Gates & Brovi there was a sizeable crowd and a decent wait so we were relieved when we showed up on Black Friday and saw the Please Seat Yourself sign when we walked in the door. We took one of the booths along the near-wall, and had waters and menus in front of us in no time.
G&B usually has cod and bluegill on Fridays, but this week they also had unique preparation of walleye available. While I was somewhat tempted by the walleye, Im not really into uniqueness where Fish Fry is concerned so I stuck with the bluegill. As you might expect, the food came extremely quickly since it wasnt very busy at the Monroe Street restaurant, and definitely looked the part.
Since it didnt have a second to sit the bluegill was steaming hot when I got my hands on it. The last time I had the bluegill it was extra salty and extra delicious, but this time around the sodium quotient was dialed down significantly. While the fish was still moist and flaky, the lack of seasoning in the breading made it far less exciting. Im not sure if there was a different cook, or maybe the regular guy was just trying to show some restraint with the salt shaker, but whatever it was the nine small fillets left me wanting some more flavor.
The French fries followed a similar trajectory to the fish and were missing the saltiness weve become accustomed to. Thankfully, there was plenty in the shaker at the table and I was able to douse the golden shoestrings into respectability.
Homemade tartar sauce can be a beautiful thing or it can be fruitless endeavor. Striking the perfect balance of sassiness and creaminess can be elusive, and Gates & Brovi certainly didnt find it tonight. This rendition was clearly homemade and tasted fine, but was incredibly thin with a consistency similar to that of ranch dressing. While there were plenty of real pickle shreds in it they didnt drive the sauce home, or really anywhere for that matter.
If there is one thing weve come to expect from Gates & Brovi its killer coleslaw. On both of our previous visits the coleslaw shined, and if it wouldnt have been for the well-seasoned fish the sassy slaw would stole the show completely. This time around it was still fresh and lively, but nowhere near as zippy and intriguing. And, of course, there is still no bread served with any of the fish which is disappointing to say the least.
All in all this was still a good trip to Gates & Brovi, but there were a few more misses than hits this time around. The fish was under-seasoned (at least compared to what we were expecting), the tartar was a bit too thin, the slaw lacked zest, and of course there was no bread whatsoever. Overall, we still recommend this Fish Fry, and this visit wont totally preclude us from coming back, but I might think twice before we take the drive all the way down Monroe again.
gatesandbrovi.com
3502 Monroe Street
Madison, WI 53711
(608) 819-8988
