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Fish Type: Ocean Perch (AYCE)     Price: $12.50

Overall, I would highly recommend this Fish Fry.

Fish Score: Excellent
Potato Score: Good
Tartar Score: Excellent
Bread Score: Excellent
Miscellaneous Score: Good

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Comment: The Tour de Fish: Part VII

There is an old saying that says you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover. While that may sound a little cliché at times, other times it really does hold true. Case and point: Kavanaugh’s Esquire Club on Madison’s east side. While the place may look a little sketchy on the outside, it is their inner beauty that steals the show – namely their All You Can Eat ocean perch.

Now, you may not know exactly what an ocean perch is, and you probably shouldn’t even care, but if you do, the answer varies depending on which source you get your info from. As far as we’re concerned it is an ocean fish (sometimes called Rose Fish) that falls on the fish deliciousness hierarchy somewhere between the disgusting Pollock and the delectable cod. Thus, it should just taste okay, but there is something in the air (or the breading) at the Esquire.

While we may never be sure how they turn trash to treasure the OP at the Esquire is simply superb. While the fish itself is a little “fishy” tasting it is combined with a deliciously light and crumbly batter that overcomes any less than desirable elements. When this mixture meets the near perfect tartar sauce a euphoric taste experience is achieved. For $11.50 it is a fair value, and since it is AYCE if for one reason or another you do get a truly sub-par piece of fish you can simply pass it over and grab another, but I have to say, of all the times I have been here I can barely remember any sub-par pieces - The Esquire is consistently that good. While we usually don’t care for “assembly line” style Fish Frys, we can look past it at the Esquire since the quality doesn’t suffer as it has a tendency to do at other places. They have to meet the demand somehow, and they do it with aplomb.

Not all places include fries with their All You Can Eat Fish Fry, but since the Esquire is slingin’ the simple crinkles they have no problem with it. While the standard spuds aren’t special they are perfectly fried and adequately offset the fish top the very end.

When taken in the context of the meal the sides at a Fish Fry rarely shine. In general you should be here for the fish so if anything else goes above and beyond it is basically a bonus. The Esquire is all about the bonus and their sides really shine especially the creamy, zesty coleslaw. The sliced rye loaf adds the finishing touch to this most traditional of all Fish Frys.

Inside Tip: Pace yourself…
Description: Always keep in mind that this is an All You Can Eat Fish Fry and fish is always better when scalding hot. Thus, when they bring the first plate you don’t need to take five pieces when you won’t be able to get to them all right away. Start with three, then when the refill comes grab a couple more. The savvy fish eater will even ask for the re-up right away to avoid any downtime.

*The Esquire Club is in Madison, and there is no substitute.

Next:Smelt at the North Bristol Sportsman’s Club.

Previous: Haddock at Fitz’s on the Lake.



www.esquireclubmadison.com
1025 N. Sherman Avenue
Madison, WI 53704

(608) 249-0193