Review
A few things really impressed me about the Badger Bowl on this, my first, visit. Beyond the fact that there are a massive amount of well cared for lanes, their dining area was much nicer than I was expecting. It was very spacious and surprisingly upscale looking. I figured this was the kind of place where a Fish Fry would be right at home. While the alley and bar were great what was most impressive was some kid who was bowling a couple lanes away from us. He was probably 15-16 and I swear to god, must have been Pete Weber's son. He was simply amazing and I don't think I saw him miss a single pin. It was strike after strike, smooth as butter. This kid was lights-out.
This visit was back in 2008 and when I inquired as to why they didn't have a Fish Fry I was not really given an answer. Well, it only took them a couple years to figure it out, but they finally got around to offering a Friday Fish Fry as of February 19, 2010. I gave them a couple weeks to get into the groove before I decided to put them on the chopping block on the 12th of March. I showed up for lunch at 11:30, sat at the bar, and gave my order to the bartender when she came by.
The cod came 5 minutes or so after I ordered and was hot, hot, hot. I scooped one of the two pieces up right away and had at it. The fish was good and fairly flaky although it was bordering on losing its texture to the small amount of the grease present. The grease could be attributed to the beer batter which was pretty thick, but thankfully not heavy. The batter had a surprisingly good taste which worked well with the thick cuts of cod.
Like the fish, the Julienne cut fries were well cooked and hot as can be when served. There were a fair amount of them which is nice because I have been getting skimpier portions than I like lately. Since I got them fresh from the fryer they were nice and hot throughout my entire meal. However, these are the type of fries that get firm and flavorless if they have to sit for any amount of time, so I kind of felt like I lucked out.
The tartar sauce was a good blend and complimented the cod well. It was creamy and heavy on the mayo, with a tiny bit of relish, and just a hint of dill. The overall taste was satisfying as the dill was in such a scant amount that it was unnoticeable. I believe it was probably homemade, unlike the tiny cup of coleslaw which was clearly Sysco at its finest.
I am almost coming to expect a lack of bread with the lunch-time Fish Fry, and while it is becoming expected it is no less of a let down. Like Mulligan's and The Echo Tap before it, The Badger Bowl didn't have a piece to spare. Even though they substitute a fountain soda for the bread, it is no less of a loss in my book.
Overall, I can easily recommend this Fish Fry even without some sort of bread. The service was as quick as lightning since the bar and kitchen were both well staffed which led to me being in and out in less than a half hour. The $8.25 price tag is on the high end for a lunch fry, but is somewhat offset by the inclusion of the soda so I didn't feel ripped off or anything. The dinner version gets a bump in price to $9.50, but I presume it comes with some bread, although the soda is excluded at night. There is also a 3-piece available for $11.50 after 4:30.
Ultimately, I had hoped the Fish Fry at the Badger Bowl would be reminiscent of the performance of Pete Weber Jr. on our first visit. While it wasn't legendary like young Pete, it was pretty good. They certainly didn't throw a perfect game, but they are carrying a steady 200 average which is certainly nothing to scoff at. I feel comfortable with Badger Bowl's synopsis that they know the score. Apparently it applies not only to bowling, but also Fish Fry.
The no-frills Friday lunch special at the Badger Bowl is available as a 2 or 3-piece, and comes with all the standard accoutrements (plus a soda). Once our order reached the kitchen the food was ready in no time (the printer they use to transfer them from the bar to the kitchen jammed and it took a minute or two for them to realize what was going on and fix it). The cod was nice and hot, and much tastier than I remembered it being. It was light and flaky, but somewhat slick due to a little bit of grease. Thankfully, the entrapped oil wasn't gross, and didn't saturate the batter. The batter itself was golden brown and almost seemed to have a glow about it. It boasted a superb flavor that gave the snowy cod a real boost. It was flat-out delicious, and there's not much more that needs to be said (other than I wish I would have ordered a 3-piece).
Some Julienne-cut spuds came with the fish, but were clearly fried during the printer jam. They were lukewarm when they arrived and pretty much cold by the end of the meal. The portion was also incredibly small and left me unsatisfied.
The tartar was thick and tasty, but had a very strong relish overtone. It was potent, but fortunately the fish had some might of its own the spirited sauce wasn't able to take total control.
Rounding it all out was a fresh dinner roll, and some finely-chopped coleslaw. The roll was soft and fluffy, and torn-off to perfection. The slaw was homemade and kind of elegant (for slaw), and while I think it could use a little kick, it was inoffensive and pleasurable, and probably pleasing for the masses.
Fish is the one element that can make or break a Fish Fry, and in this case it totally made it. While the fries, tartar, coleslaw, and roll were all adequate, the cod is what really made the meal matter, and in the end that is just how it's supposed to be. Overall, I recommend the Fish Fry at the Badger Bowl, and will come back any time I want good fish for a fair price... or if I feel like bowling.
Since the Badger Bowl started offering a Fish Fry in early 2010 we have had them on our radar, and kept them there. We've patronized the Bowl exclusively during the lunch hour due to the fact that they are one of a handful of places that actually serves the Friday treat before 5pm. Since I had one regular and a couple newbies this week I figured that the Southside establishment was as good a place as any to set up shop. We took the short cruise down an extremely torn-up Park Street and found ourselves lane-side just before noon. We took one of the few open tables big enough for a party of four (the place was bumpin'), and waited for our waitress to make her way through the crowd of fish-heads. Eventually she happened upon us and we wasted no time ordering a round of Fish Frys and drinks in one fell swoop.
The service was relatively speedy considering how busy the Bowl was, and our fish arrived roughly 10 or 15 minutes after the order went in - nice and hot, as it should be. The cod looked idyllic as the golden-brown beer batter that cloaked the thick chunks practically glistened under the lights. I snagged one of the two pieces and tore through the medium-thick batter into the creamy cod. The fish was fairly flaky, and blended well with the rich batter. Extremely rich and creamy isn't exactly my ideal fish combo (I prefer a light and flaky breading), but this cod was very good as far as that style is concerned. The overall taste was pleasing, and, both of the average-sized pieces were gone in and instant.
On par with the fish was a fair portion of thick-cut Julienne French fries. While I would definitely have liked to see a few more on the plate, those that managed to make it were well fried and quite scrumptious. Their crispness paired well with the tartar which was composed of about 95% mayo with just enough relish to keep things interesting. The extremely velvety sauce also blended flawlessly with the creamy cod creating a richness that is almost off the charts. There is definitely not a shortage of calories in this 2-piece.
Coming along for the ride were a standard dinner roll and the homemade Badger slaw. The slaw lacked zest, but even so, I enjoyed the creamy concoction and put away the whole cup with no problem. The roll was also no match for my appetite and not a crumb of the soft white bun remained after all was said and done.
At meals end, we retreated to the parking lot with plans on nursing our bursting bellies as we made the quick trip back to our respective offices. Unfortunately, an immediate retreat to the comforts of campus was not to be, as a perilously potholed Park Street had the last laugh, and left us one tire down. We changed the flat in the blink of an eye, sped to Holmes to drop the deflated donut, and zipped back to campus in no time, our bodies fueled by the calorific cod, and fattening fries.
Flat tire aside, this was another wildly successful trip to the Badger Bowl. After thrice visiting the luxurious lanes, not much has changed, but then again, not much needs to. The fish was really good, especially if you are a fan of the thicker beer batters. The heavy tartar complimented the cod perfectly while fairly good fries, a regular roll, and handsomely-portioned homemade coleslaw did what they needed to do. The Fish Fry at the Badger Bowl is certainly the total package, and it looks like the fish friendly folks in Madison have finally picked up on it.
For starters, they are keyed into the fact that there are a good amount of people who want their fish for lunch. They cater to this crowd and start putting out plates at 11AM for those who just can't wait until dinner time, like us. For the first time in what seems like forever, the core trio that comprises Madison Fish Fry was back at the table together and ready for some lunch. I pulled in right at noon to find Jer and Gabe had already arrived and put in our orders. I scored my soda (included in the $8.25 price tag) and no more than 5 minutes later our plates protruded from the kitchen and fell into our eagerly awaiting arms.
As per usual, after a full morning of thinking about Fish Fry I was starving. I wasted no time and tore into one of my two beer battered fillets and damn near burned my mouth - this stuff was fresh from the fryer and steaming hot. The batter was very tasty, and while it looked thick, was actually pretty light. The fish itself was also flavorful, and although it was not super flaky, it was certainly good enough, and not mushy by any means. The overall taste sensation of fish and batter was very satisfying, especially when coupled with the delicious tartar. As far as beer battered cod goes, this stuff is up there.
The Badger Bowl also has a good handle on what makes a good tartar. Their sauce was thick and creamy, and blended well with the rich cod. It was based on a hefty percentage of mayo and spiked with a tiny, practically unnoticeable amount of dill. A near perfect hint of relish rounded out the mix and gave it the necessary punch.
The impressive shine of the cod and tartar cast a bit of a shadow on the French fries and left them dimly lit. While the straight cut potatoes were fried to a near perfect golden-brown, they were just not superb. In addition there weren't really very many of them and I ran out well before I finished cod #2. While this isn't a huge deal, I do get bummed when I run out that quickly.
The folks at The Bowl are clearly quick studies and since our last visit have added a roll without upping the price. Madison Fish Fry takes the inclusion of bread with his fish very seriously and when it isn't there, it is noted. The plain roll that they have added is a perfect complement to the meal and really helps to round it out. Their slaw is also nothing special, but then again, it doesn't really have to be. At least the creamy concoction is there and serves as a nice palate cleanser in between bites of fish.
After a second visit to the Badger Bowl it is clear that they have learned a thing or two and are doing their best to improve their Fish Fry. If they keep at it they could find themselves in highly recommendable territory in no time - hell, they aren't that far away now. The cod and tartar are really good, and bordering on excellence. The fries, slaw and roll all play their parts admirably as well, although none of them are over the top. Overall, this is an easy Fish Fry to recommend and I am impressed by their constant willingness to improve. If you are a Fish Fry fan, and who isn't, go to The Badger Bowl, you just might learn a thing or two.