Review
We first visited Buck & Honey's not all that long ago, and were thoroughly impressed, save for the lack of bread (we'll get deeper into that later). Since Sun Prairie is practically "near east" I figured that the instantly-established establishment was a good bet impress. When Brown rolls into town people seem to come out of the woodwork, and when a few of our other friends told us they were up for a Fry this Friday, I knew I had a treat in store for them as well. We agreed that 7:30 would be a good time to partake in the frying of fish, and called Buck & Honey's to make a reservation (unlike most places, B&H will actually take a reservation on Fridays if you have a big enough party - total bonus).
The Mrs. and I rolled in a little early to "anchor" our party, which we did successfully, procuring a couple stools at the crowded bar and a general area around them. No sooner had one of the wonderful bartenders placed a honey martini and a Spotted Cow in our hands than we caught a glimpse of greatness. No, it wasn't Buck & Honeys Fish Fry that snagged our gaze, but none other than a true Wisconsin icon... Barry Alvarez himself. We sat in the ADs company for about five minutes when suddenly the hostess came calling, our name the one that passed her lips. It was only 7:20 and the rest of our party had not yet arrived so our premature summoning was less than ideal. We diverted the hostess, and eventually, at exactly 7:30, the last of our clique rolled in. Unfortunately, by this point our table had been given away in the shuffle, possibly to Mr. Barry Alvarez & friends (at least that's what I'm telling myself) who disappeared shortly after we were beckoned. We were resigned to waiting for a bit, which at Buck & Honey's wasn't really that big of a deal.
The intermission passed quickly, and another table opened up for us in about 10 minutes. The hostess escorted our party of seven to the "Bird Room," gave us some menus, and pranced away leaving us to our devices. A few moments later our waitress arrived, and immediately started jotting down order after order of Fish Fry. Out of our seven diners, four went for the standard cod Fish Fry, one for the baked cod, one for the $21 walleye, and one for a veggie entree. Anticipating split checks would be necessary our savvy server kept each order separate and tacked on additional drinks as necessary - well played.
About 15 minutes passed from the moment our waitress left, until the food made its way back to us. The fried fish came first, and I did what I could to restrain myself from diving in until everyone at the table had a similar setting in front of them. This attempt at restriction met with minimal success as I could not help but pop a fry or two. Once I did get my hands on the cod, the phenomenal fish did not last long. The unblemished cod was pure white, incredibly flaky, and clearly well-trimmed. It was partnered with a superb batter, which was a little spicy and incredibly delicious. The mild batter blended effortlessly with the smooth cod, creating a near-perfect flavor combo. Even though you only get two pieces they are larger than average, and equated to roughly a Wilson's 3-piece worth of meat. This portion was a bit on the small side, and left me longing for another piece (or two) once I destroyed what I had.
The $12 2-piece comes with a vast amount of potato options and this Friday B&H was pushing the hash browns. Unfortunately, no matter how good they claimed the shreds to be, there was simply no way I was going to order them, what, with Bucks home-cut fries on the chopping block as well. Perhaps I should have branched out and tried the shredded spuds, but I am a fry-guy. Luckily, I was allotted a taste from someone who gave in to the pressure and they were very good, however, I still feel I made the right choice as the French fries were well salted, and literally as close to perfection as you are going get. Mi amor.
The small cup of tartar that joined the dance was also right on the money, and the waitress had no problem wrangling up a couple extras for those at the table that desired it. Often times you would find yours truly in that group, but I knew that I'd have no problem making my cup last through the two flaky fillets of fish. What's more, the cod was so well done that it didn't really even need the sauce, which is extremely rare to see, and speaks to the majesty that is the B&H Fish Fry.
Capping of the meal was another homemade goody, this time in the form of coleslaw. This creamy concoction boasted a near perfect blend of cabbage and mayo which resulted in an outstanding mixture. Likewise, the ginger slaw, which we were allowed to substitute if requested, had a flavor all its own and was no less delicious. Keep in mind this coming from a man who loathes ginger.
Now, you can call me an asshole, or tell me to shove it if you must, but there is an unwritten rule that Fish Fry is to come with some sort of bread - it is just the fact of the matter. While traditionally it would be salted rye, I will take just about anything. What I won't accept is absolutely nothing, which, unfortunately, is what Buck & Honey's is giving you - nada. Is this Fish Fry still recommendable without bread? Sure. Would they be flirting with the Top 10 status with a simple white roll? I think they would... just sayin'.
As we were finishing up pretty much everyone remarked about their various dishes, and how great each one was. All the Fish Fry eaters indicated that it was easily some of the best cod they had ever eaten, while Katie agreed that the baked cod (which comes with a special sauce, in lieu of drawn butter) was superb as well. The lovely Mrs. Hanewicz allowed me to try her pan-fried walleye, and it was outstanding. It basically melted in your mouth (as our waitress claimed it would), but I wouldn't call it a "Fish Fry" per se. True, it was fried, but it was drizzled with the same sauce as the baked cod, and not very plentiful. The single small fillet was great, but at $21, I don't think I could justify ordering it.
You know you are doing something right when you get local celebrities like Barry Alvarez in your establishment, and what's good for Barry & Friends, is good for MFF & Friends. Overall, this is a great Fish Fry, and one we will come back to time and again. The cod is above reproach, the fries are some of the best we've ever had, and the tartar is the keystone that holds it all together - the Holy Trinity of Fish Fry is well represented by Buck & Honey's. The killer coleslaw rounds out the meal as well as it can, but the lack of bread really does leave a hole that is impossible to fill without some sort of starch. There is no doubt that Buck & Honey's is putting out a great Fish Fry, and one that you simply have to try for yourself. Bread or not, they just get the job done, and that is really all there is to it.
We arrived at the unsullied Sun Prairie hot spot around 7:30, and found ourselves deep in the heart of the Friday night rush. For being the new kid in town, B&H certainly wasn't lacking patronage. An overly kind gent eagerly offered up his barstool to my crutch-laden wife, which allowed us a shot at ordering drinks. I, of course, grabbed myself a Cow while my injury riddled better-half opted for the honey martini (fittingly enough). We sipped our drinks, shot the sh*t with one of the friendly barkeeps, and well within our half-hour quoted wait were seated.
Our high-top table was just a stone's throw from the bar, and as soon as our talkative waiter saw we were seated he buzzed right over. As per usual, our wait at the bar allowed us plenty of time to reacquaint ourselves with the menu and make our selections, so when waiter Joe came by we were ready for him. The girls chose non-fish related items (you aren't here to hear about those, although they were quite good), while I opted for the $12 Fish Fry, over the $21 walleye, which was also on special. The food was ready in short order, and we wasted no time digging in once we got our hands on it.
As soon as the first bite of my 3-piece hit my lips I was transported to a fried wonderland. I took another bite, then another, and then another; before I knew what was what two of my three pieces were gone, leaving me to wonder what happened. Apparently when fish is this good, I get lost in its succulence, that's what. The beer batter was simply divine. It was light, but clung to the fish well while at the same time being completely devoid of any grease. Its partner in crime was also superb, as the actual cod was flaky and tender, and fell apart when desired but held firm when it should have.
Pairing perfectly with the fish was a house made tartar which was also nothing less than exemplarily. It was creamy and rich, and seemingly cut from the same cloth as our beloved Wilson's tartar. It elevated the cod above the mortal plane and into a true state of nirvana. Needless to say MFF was one happy camper.
Of course, no Fish Fry is complete without the perfect side of fried potatoes, and we have to say that B&H is now the lone claimant to the French fry throne. These fantastic fries were clearly homemade, cooked to perfection, and absolutely delicious. In the past we have claimed Hub's fries (of Vernon Country Fair fame) as the pinnacle of fry-dom, but we have finally found a challenger to that title. Why every place doesn't attempt to make fries in this same manner is beyond me, but thankfully someone has finally figured it out. The only problem with their lusciousness was the fact that the grabby hands of my co-diners severely limited my supply, which wasn't all that massive to begin with. More, please...
In our eyes a Fish Fry just isn't a Fish Fry without some sort of bread. Rye, wheat, white, roll, slice, loaf, whatever, we welcome all comers and don't draw a harsh line in the sand, but do expect some sort of leavened dough. Unfortunately, a chink appeared in B&H's armor when it came to offering the simple starch and nothing accompanied the holy trinity of: cod, fries and tartar. It is too bad really, as that simple oversight cost this Fish Fry a chance at immortality. While it is still highly recommendable, without some sort of bread, their chances at making it to the top are severely hindered without the staple. An attempt to save face came in the form of a heap of coleslaw, and while the creamy concoction was good (as far as slaw goes) even the best slaw can't make up for the complete absence of some sort of bread.
Overall, this Fish Fry is highly recommendable even with a critical component lacking. Had they served up a simple slice of rye they would be flirting with a top 20 status, but as it stands, their score falls just short. Fantastic fish, tremendous tartar, and phenomenal fries really laid the groundwork to what we can say is easily the best Fish Fry in Sun Prairie, and one that is destined to be one of the best in the Madison area. Top it all off with friendly, (overly) attentive service, fantastic drinks (the honey martini was spectacular), and a marvelous atmosphere, and it is clear why they are toast of the town. Buck & Honey's was just the taste of sweetness Sun Prairie needed. We will be back to sup their saccharine nectar again soon, you can bet on that.
We arrived just after 7PM and put our party of four on the list. Being Friday, B&H's was bustling, but we found an open area, grabbed some drinks, and took shelter near the bar. Within 20 minutes the hostess summoned our quartette and showed us to our table on the mini-stage in the dining room nearest the bar. She left us with some menus, and a smile.
It took about 10 minutes for the waitress to finally make her way over, but it gave us ample time to study the menu (although the Fish Fry options are pretty limited so there wasn't all that much for us to take in). The three fish eaters all went for the $13.50 3-piece cod Fish Fry with the cheesy hash browns, while our lone vegetarian chose whatever it is she did. A couple of us also chose to add soup to our meals, yours truly included.
The clam chowder came in advance of the fish, was clearly made in-house, and tasted very good. It was thick and hearty, and featured a fair amount of clam. I gobbled it down and no sooner had the last bites been polished off than the scalding hot fish arrived.
We have come to expect the cod at Buck & Honey's to be some of the best of the best, but this go-round it seemed to have slipped a bit. The three average sized pieces of fish were obviously high quality, and featured the same light breading as always, but it seemed like a little something was missing. Perhaps it was just a bit less spicy than normal? Perhaps the breading was just a little bit thicker? I couldn't quite put my finger on it, but regardless, the fish was flaky and the breading still tasty enough to call it excellent - just not Top 10 excellent.
I know for a fact that the home-cut fries at Buck & Honey's are some of the best around, but chose the "exceptional" cheesy hash browns after being lobbied by the waitress to do so. She was right, the cheesy spuds were pretty exceptional, and made a fine substitute for the homemade fries, but I'm not sure they were quite as superb. They had a silky flavor that was mild, but almost too mild, smooth but almost too smooth. As Peter Griffin would say, the side almost "insists upon itself" - the flavor good, but not incredibly diverse. They were cheesy, but that was the long and short of it. Don't get me wrong, they were still great, but I'll take the flavors found in the home-cut fries any day.
The mild fish was little to no match for the tarter that B&H's trotted out. While the sauce had a very nice consistency it was a bit heavy on the relish which easily overpowered the smooth cod. The slaw somewhat followed in the sauce's steps in that it was tasty, but slightly missed the mark. The creamy concoction almost reminded me of Wilson's slaw of old, and seemed to have some sour cream, or something similar, in it. Luckily, unlike the Wilson's slaw of old, it was salvaged with a hint of zest on the backend which pulled it back from the brink.
On our previous visits we lambasted Buck & Honey's for failing to provide any sort of bread with their Fish Fry - a no-no in our book. Well, apparently they took our advice and added some kind of rye to the mix. Well, either the rye wasn't popular, or they were just out of it, but instead of the Fish Fry classic we received one of the little football-shaped white bread loaves. The loaves were just fine, and much better than nothing, but still not the rye I'd gotten my hopes up for.
All things being equal, this was another great trip to Buck & Honey's, and, as per usual, all in attendance were pleased. On top of the excellent food, the service was punctual and very thorough beyond the opening delay. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry, and will come back whenever we're in need of diversity and deliciousness on a Friday night.
B&H's does a $10.50 2-piece piece for lunch which according to the bill is actually a $9.50 2-piece with an unannounced up-charge of $1.00 for the cheesy hash brown casserole. The pieces of cod were on the frail side coming in at around 3 oz each soaking wet. They were home to a crispy beer batter that let you know it was there, but didn't bring much flavor to the table. It was a pretty standard cod which was flaky but held together by the forceful batter.
Unannounced or not, the cheesy hash browns were worth the extra buck...although I'm not sure what would have come otherwise. The casserole was slightly crispy on top with plenty of gooey deliciousness inside. The portion was hearty and helped pick up some of the slack left by the waifish cod.
The tartar wasn't the thickest out there but wasn't the thinnest either. It clung when it needed to and added some pop to the presentation, but couldn't really ball with the batter. A delightfully garlicky roll was plush as can be and turned out to be one of the starts of the show. Some fresh looking slaw was incredibly crunchy despite it's creamy base that tried to subvert triumphant texture.
Buck & Honey's has been the best Fish Fry in Sun Prairie since its inception and not much has changed. While the Fish Fry doesn't strike us like it once did it is still very good and one we'll continue to keep tabs on. Overall, we recommend this Fish Fry and are glad to see they are maintaining their mastery.
The new patio at B&H's (complete with cornhole and horseshoe pits) has relieved some of the pressure on the interior space. When we showed up during primetime this Friday there were spots open at the bar, and even a few open tables. We snagged one of the high-tops right away and were off and running. It was a great start and something we weren't mentally prepared for, but were happy to find (we expected a long wait bar-side). There were a waitresses buzzing all over in a well-coordinated ballet of efficiency. They all seemed to be genuinely enjoying their work and it wasn't but a couple minutes before our own joyful server stopped on by.
As is the norm at Buck & Honey's she took our order in a flash and delivered it promptly to the kitchen without missing a beat. No more than 10 minutes passed before she returned with a smile on her face and plates in hand. The Fish Fry ($13.50) looked pretty, but as expected, the portion was on the small side. While, in actuality, it was probably an appropriate size, we Wisconsinites have become accustomed to, and have come to expect, more and bigger fish. While I personally don't have a problem with the amount of food I know there are people out there that might. They walleye and lake perch options were also one the expensive side.
Regardless of the size, the cod was delicious. It featured a light and flaky breading that enrobed, but didn't drown out, the moist, premium cuts of cod. The breading had a balanced seasoning blend with a cumin undertone that played perfectly with the pure fish. While some grease tried to collect, I made sure to flip them about three minutes in to keep it from settling too much which kept things fairly pristine.
The default side with the Fish Fry is a cheesy hash brown casserole, not the standard French fries. The browns were rich and creamy, clearly made with care, and scooped right out of a big pan/casserole dish. They were definitely tasty, but I still kicked myself for not remembering to switch to the house-cut fries. The fries are simply phenomenal.
A creamy tartar came on the side, and had the right flavor but could have been a tad thicker. There was noticeable dill present in the homemade sauce, but it wasn't overpowering and didn't taint the fish. The slaw was also homemade, but unlike the tartar, was incredibly creamy. The thick goo was plentiful, but could have used some more zip.
A little white roll was perched on the corner of the plate, and was fresh and warm. While it's no rye, it's not a bad alternative, and probably more popular than the rye so it's understandable why they chose to go that route. Rye is traditional, but not necessarily in vogue in 2013.
Buck & Honey's is the best thing Sun Prairie has going for it, and it really shows. It's definitely a place the locals can be proud of, and the crown jewel in whatever culinary scene exists in the suburb. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry and have lots of good reason to come back time and again.