Review
The first time we went to B&B it was exemplary. From the food to the service, everything blew us away and we could hardly wait to come back. This time around it was a totally different story, and we left feeling disappointed and underwhelmed.
Instead of the haddock we were expecting our $14 went towards cod and while it arrived quickly it wasn't scalding hot like it should have been. White it wasn't cold or anything like that it definitely wasn't in the zone. Like the haddock we enjoyed previously the cod came as one large piece, and while it was flaky for the most part, there was some slickness between the fish and the batter. The batter itself was on the thick side, but since it was substantial it actually held up to the chunky cut of cod.
The skin-on fries were also not as impressive this time around as the portion had a lot of nubs and not as many full-cuts. It lead to a lot of pinching instead of plucking, which doesn't mean the world, but when I'm paying $14 it'd be nice to at least get a continent or two. The tartar was also disappointing as the mix was on the thin-side and lacked the zip we were expecting. It was good enough to make the fish more palatable, but simply couldn't take it over the top like it did on our last visit.
On our previous trip the rye was grilled to perfection, but this time around it was all over the place. Some parts were charred while other corners were still raw. It was somewhat strange and certainly not the righteous rye we remembered.
We were also expecting more from the slaw based on our previous experience, but this scoop missed the mark. It was more bland than anticipated, but at least had the same consistency as the old slaw. So there's that...
We really don't have any explanation for what happened on this visit to Buck & Badger and would definitely not have been back if this is what we would have gotten the first time around. Overall, we don't recommend this Fish Fry, but will likely come back for the rubber match at some point to see if they rebound. Hopefully this Fry was just a bad showing, and the haddock we had the first time is the rule and not the exception, but at this point we're not really sure what to think.
Gabe was back in town and we had a large group, so even though it was after 8:00 we still had to wait for a bit while the friendly hostess got a big booth together for us. It wasn't a problem though since a pitcher of Schlitz only costs ten bucks at B&B and we were already feeling pretty good from a little time on the Terrace. Eventually we got our booth, and had our orders into our lip-pieced waiter in no time (at least it seemed like no time, the pitcher of Optimator at the Union may have had something to do with that though).
The Friday Fish Fry at Buck & Badger features a $14 haddock fillet complete with all the usual trimmings. The surprises started right away as the fish showed up in no time, delivered in pristine shape by our thoughtful college-aged server. The haddock came in a single chunk and was surprisingly large. The fat, meaty fillet was also surprisingly tasty with mammoth planes of flaky, white meat and no grease whatsoever. The fish had a great flavor, and paired nicely with the B&B batter that wasn't light by any means, but didn't need to be since the fish was so robust. I will say that the beer-infused coating could have used a little more seasoning, but we were all surprised at how well it paired with the hearty haddock.
Our fish rode in on a steed of starches, but unfortunately the homespun fries were under-cooked. While the portion was princely, they were sort of mushy, but still salty and delicious. Their lackluster frying was a bit of a surprise since the fish was done perfectly, and usually if a place does the fish well, the fries follow suit. Oh well. I guess you can't win 'em all.
A thick and creamy tartar bolstered the lineup, and really put the fish in its place. It was a welcome addition with the zip you want and flavor you crave. Although I was a little surprised when the bill showed up and the second cup cost me an extra $0.50.
The surprises just kept on coming with the slaw which turned out to be some of the best we've ever had. It was creamy and zesty, with a sweetness that really kept you coming back for more. It was also an eye-catching mix, with two kinds of cabbage and plenty of carrot to pretty it up.
A full slice of grilled rye rounded out the plate and surprised everyone with its size. Normally places skimp on the rye (or simply phase it out altogether), but the Buck bucked that trend. The slice was hearty and stanky, and provided the perfect contrast to the sweet slaw.
The fish was huge and tasty, the fries were under-fried but well-salted, the tartar hit the mark, the slaw was simply superb, and the rye was totally radical. It was the full Fish Fry experience, and while we were all pleased there was still one more big surprise coming - chocolate chip cookies! Buck & Badger, you are one sly dog (or other woodland creature, as it were).
Going into a Fish Fry with low expectations is an easy way to keep yourself from being disappointed, but it also puts you in a position for a big surprise should it be something special. While the fish at Buck & Badger wasn't necessarily something special, it was the full meal deal and definitely a welcome surprise. Overall, this Fish Fry is a borderline highly recommendable, and one we will definitely be coming back for. Surprise, surprise, surprise!