Review
The petite portion of Lake Erie Yellow Perch runs $19.50 ($18.00 if you have cash) and is only three fillets deep. I snuck a piece of cod off the kid's plate to beef things up and am glad it did. The perch was decent but the cod stood out with its flaky texture heartier portion. Next time, cod all the way.
The steak fries were pretty basic but did the job, as did the juicy house slaw. The tartar was a thin mix that was more like a dressing than a true tartar. It had a nice flavor and actually clung to the fish pretty well.
This was a solid Fish Fry although the perch was pretty pricy on a per piece basis. If you find yourself flying with the hound I'd recommend going for the cod.The first stop was lunch at the Flying Hound which consisted of lake perch and French fries. The perch costs a reasonable $13.50 and comes with everything it should except bread. I've had perch at the Hound three times now and this was best of the lot although it was still exceedingly salty (and this coming from a guy who loves his salt). The fish was pliable and flaky, but all of the subtle fishy goodness was lost to the hyper-seasoned breading. It was simply overbearing and needed heaps of tartar to mellow it out, and even that couldn't quite do it.
Tons of skin-on matchstick fries are piled next to and beneath the perch, and fried right to the sweet spot. They were golden sticks of deliciousness, but like the fish, salted more heavily than most people could handle.
A unique house-made tartar accompanies the fish and has a good flavor. While mayo-based, it has much more in there than just relish. As an aside: there is a kid's fish and chips available as well. It's one piece of cod, served with fries, and ranch dressing instead of tartar. Weird I know, but that must be what kids are in to.
The Hound has some very interesting slaw which is clearly made in-house, but kind of runny. Much like the other items is also has a very unique seasoning applied. I couldn't say exactly what it was (coriander or something out of the ordinary), but it really overpowered the blend making for a very unbalanced dish.
While I really appreciate all the effort the Flying Hound goes through to make their Fish Fry unique the heavy-handed seasoning gets to be a bit much. What we found at the Waypoint draws a stark contrast. I've had the cod at the Waypoint in the past and thought it paled in comparison to that of that of the Flying Hound. This time I decided to try their $14.00 walleye and found it to be markedly better.
For starters, the Waypoint (and the Hound for that matter) are both exceedingly accommodating to families with young children. They seat smartly to ensure families have the space they need without taking anything away from the experience of other diners. The food also comes quickly at both places which is a godsend when you're sitting there with a hungry child. If you have a kid you know what I'm talking about.
The Waypoint walleye fillet was on the small side, and covered in a dark and crispy coating that melded well with the flaky fish. Since it was clearly a young fish it didn't have any musty flavors or anything which allowed the breading to take center stage (which it did thanks more to its texture rather than its taste). Since it was small, it went fast but was still better overall than the salty perch I had for lunch.
Both Point and Hound appear to serve the same fries although they more conservatively portioned at the dinner destination. The Waypoint tartar was noticeably different however, with more zip and much smoother consistency than its comrade.
The Waypoint mimicked its sibling in that there was no bread provided, but stood apart from it with a peppy, much more balanced slaw.
While the Flying Hound made my write-up in the Isthmus those many months ago, the Waypoint might actually have the better Fish Fry at this point. The perch at the Hound was again too salty, but I will say that of all the fish I've had between the two places their cod is still the best. The Waypoint is doing a better job of striking a balance, and while the Hound has the highest highs, it also reaches the lowest lows. Overall, we still recommend the lake perch and the Flying Hound, but recommend the walleye and the Waypoint Public House more. Both are good, but staying on the beam is critical and Public House strikes the right balance.
For starters, our first visit to the Flying Hound was nothing less than exemplary, and we figured they would become a mainstay in our Fish Fry arsenal. This initial encounter featured a couple impressive pieces of cod which had us seeing stars. After a second visit, and a second fish selection, the glitter faded somewhat under the weight of a few tough pieces of perch. Based on the first run-in we believed they'd earned the shot at redemption and figured they'd bounce back in a big way. You could call today the rubber match.
We started our third get-together differently than either of the others - with a cup of the Hound's homemade clam chowder. The thick and spicy soup was superb and featured at least five to six nice-sized chunks of clam. While we usually abstain from the chowder we were happy we went all-out this time as it was easily some of the best we've ever had. Really...Ever.
We were early, as we so often are nowadays, so the fish came in the blink of an eye. Salt is the name of the game with the breading at the FH which made it a bit overwhelming. It's pungent and crispy and basically makes the thin fish disappear beneath its sodium sheath. It's a shame because the perch is clearly high quality and while we love a well-seasoned breading we still need to taste the fish to some extent.
Plenty of fries accompanied the briny perch and were fried just right. While we weren't sure if they were house-cut after our last visit we concluded they must be after a third helping. They show plenty of skin (which is always a good thing) and there were a bunch of little nubs which you have to assume food distributors (like Sysco) would weed out. Verdict: house-cut all the way.
Helping to make the perch more palatable was the Hound's homespun tartar sauce. It was nothing less than excellent and although nondescript, mellowed the salty fish out. Whereas the slaw tasted funky on both of our previous visits this time around it just tasted fresh and clean. It was an "angel hair" slaw and still lacked pop, but did what it needed to do. No bread came with the $14 perch plate so there was nothing it could do.
The Flying Hound is still making their way and clearly working out some kinks. While we loved the cod (and if we were to come back we'd be sure to get it again), the perch needs a little work. Overall, even with an overly-salty breading, we still barely recommend this Fish Fry due largely to the supporting cast. If and when the Hound starts firing on all cylinders all the time they will be a serious force to be reckoned with.
This time around we came for lunch and tried the lake perch rather than the cod. Whereas the cod dinner of two weeks prior was spectacular the lake perch lunch was lackluster. We were surprised to say the least, but as they say, that's why we leave no stone unturned. Unlike dinner, the crowd at the FH was sparse during the daytime which detracted from the ambiance somewhat. The service was still fast while sitting at the bar, but not quite as engrossing. Regardless, the fish came very quickly and that's what's really important.
The lake perch at the Hound carries a hefty $14 price tag which gets you five fillets, a side of fries or a salad, a cup of tartar, and a bowl of homemade coleslaw. The perch carried an ultra-crispy breading that tasted a bit over-fried. It was dark and very firm to the point where the edges on two or three of the fillets needed to be ripped apart or gnawed through. The breading had a lot of flavor (which we normally drool over) but it was actually a bit too much for the fragile fish. That said, the perch seemed to be of high quality and we would give it a second shot hoping for a less heavy-handed fry cook.
A forest of fries occupied the periphery of the plate in a dense undergrowth that took some serious lumberjacking to get through. The amount of fries was totally insane when compared to the portion of fish and we had to spend a few minutes thinning their numbers after the fish was clear cut. The tubers were well-fried and tasty but after having them a couple times I don't think they are cut in-house, and at the very least not freshly cut.
On both visits the tartar was tremendous although it's on the thin side as far as tartars go. It was actually more necessary on the second turn as it covered some of the imperchfections in the fish with its pop and clingabilty (I know, I made up a couple words there).
Besides the unimpressive perch the biggest detractors in this Fish fry were the coleslaw and the lack of bread. No bread is a bummer but that was expected since there wasn't any the first time around either. Similarly, we also expected the slaw to be so-so and it certainly lived up (or down) to that expectation. While the portion seemed even larger than our previous encounter with it that wasn't necessarily a good thing since it was still dry and used an odd flavored vinegar. I'm not entirely sure if it was the vinegar or the cabbage used but in all honesty it almost tasted dirty. So it goes.
No Fish Fry is immune to an off day but the best of the best have ways of minimizing the damage. At this point the Flying Hound is one for two, with one amazing meal and one that was iffy at best. Overall, we barely recommend the lake perch based on this visit, but will be back for a rubber match to see what the real Flying Hound Fish Fry is. I'm still banking on the greatness of our first rendezvous.
You know the Flying Hound takes their Friday Fish Fry seriously before you even walk in the door. Their website has a whole page dedicated to nothing but their Friday specials which does a nice job of expounding the virtues of their wild-caught fish as well as getting you in the mood to chow down. Like most places that are serious about Fish Fry they have cod, lake perch, and walleye available and in order to gauge their worth we started with the standard cod since that's what most people prefer.
The cod comes in at $11.00 which isn't cheap, but is reasonable considering portion size and the type of establishment. For starters, the wait staff are on top of things, and we received friendly, punctual service from the moment we arrived until the second we left. Of course, this means the fish came out steaming hot and looking pretty. The 3-piece Wild-Caught Alaskan cod was truly top-notch, and incredibly impressive. It was pure and flaky with a light breading that was nothing short of delicious. The coating had a unique blend of seasoning and was fried so perfectly that no grease developed even upon sitting. It was really remarkable stuff.
Some thick, Julienne-cut fries with skin-on come on the side and featured crispy exteriors and supple interiors. They seemed to be cut in-house, and while tossed greens were also an option we felt good about our deep-fried decision.
The Hound's house-made tartar wasn't a traditional mix by any means. It wasn't thick, it wasn't loaded with relish, but it still clung like the dickens and had a great taste that put a superb finishing touch on the smooth cod. Like the fish it was exceptional, and while untraditional it was also undefinably delicious.
Whereas the fish, fries, and tartar drove the bus, the slaw was just along for the ride. Like the tartar it was also untraditional, but crisp and fresh, and clearly made in-house. The uplifting mix had a lot of potential but lacked the zip to really take it home.
This Fish Fry is easy to rave about, but for all the thoughtfulness that went into its creation there was one glaring omission: bread. A little slice of rye would certainly have gone a long way.
While we adore old school supper clubs and admire neighborhood taverns that have stood for decades, we're encouraged when new places throw their hat in the ring and give it their all. Overall, we highly recommend the cod at The Flying Hound and foresee great things as they continue to hone their craft. This place is definitely taking off and their Fish Fry is ready to soar.
Clam chowder is the Soup of the Day on Fridays and easily some of the best our fair city has to offer. It's rich and flavorful with big chunks of clam throughout. There is enough clam that almost every bite has a bit which is a rarity as far as chowder goes.
The kitchen at the Hound flies and the food always comes quickly, almost too quickly. Three lightly-breaded and flaky pieces of pristine cod take center stage on the plate making their presence known immediately. The fish has a delicate texture which pairs miraculously well with its well-seasoned and crumbly breading. It's effortless eating and makes you want far more than the three pieces provided.
House-cut fries are the side of choice with the fish, and as you might expect they lack uniformity but have that certain something that makes them genuine. While not always perfect, they are usually well-fried although when you have small bits along with full-sizers it's inevitable there will be a few that are overdone...that's just the tradeoff you have to deal with.
The velvety smooth cod is good enough to be eaten solo, but of course it's always nice to have some tartar to dip it in. While a beefier sauce could easily overwhelm it, the Flying Hound's mix is thin and tasty, and complements it well with a mild dilly undertone. It does just enough.
No bread comes with the Fish Fry but that little oversight can't ground this Hound. Plenty of thinly-sliced coleslaw picks up some of the slack with its careful, well-balanced preparation.
While this isn't the perfect Fish Fry, the Flying Hound is doing a lot of things right with it (especially the fish itself). Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry and count it among the best of the newcomers in the Madison area.
We swung in for lunch hoping for a quick turnaround, and quick it was - I had my $19 walleye and waffle fries ($2 up-charge) no more than 7 minutes after we sat down. As you can imagine with that rapid of a turnaround the fish was scalding hot. It looked superb and despite the heat I ripped it down the seam and got right to business.
The fillet was fat and flaky and really looked the part. It was adorned with a dark breading with a light texture that didn't really have a ton of flavor. I think a little salt would go a long way here, but it did let the actual meat take center stage. A thick, bold tartar could also have kicked things into a higher gear but the Hound's sauce was on the thin side of the spectrum. It did bring a little tang to the equation and clung well making marginal improvements to the overall experience.
The waffle fries were pretty standard and the slaw, while plentiful, wasn't terribly exciting. No bread comes with the fish which always makes me a little sad.
The Hound has been around for over a decade now and they have seemingly settled into their groove. The place is still pretty nice and the food is still pretty decent, and if you're a futbol fan it's pretty evident this is still THE place to watch the match.
The petite portion of Lake Erie Yellow Perch runs $19.50 ($18.00 if you have cash) and is only three fillets deep. I snuck a piece of cod off the kid's plate to beef things up and am glad it did. The perch was decent but the cod stood out with its flaky texture heartier portion. Next time, cod all the way.
The steak fries were pretty basic but did the job, as did the juicy house slaw. The tartar was a thin mix that was more like a dressing than a true tartar. It had a nice flavor and actually clung to the fish pretty well.
This was a solid Fish Fry although the perch was pretty pricy on a per piece basis. If you find yourself flying with the hound I'd recommend going for the cod.