Fish Type: Cod Price: $10.00
Overall, I would highly recommend this Fish Fry.
| Fish Score: Excellent Potato Score: Excellent Tartar Score: Excellent Bread Score: Excellent Miscellaneous Score: Good |  |
Comment: Madison is entering a golden age as far as Fish Frys are concerned. There is renewed vigor for the Wisconsin tradition in the Capital City, with places like Dexters Pub leading the charge. These establishments have taken it upon themselves to bring back what originally made the Friday Fish Fry so popular (lightly breaded freshwater fish), while still embracing what modern fish goers expect (crispy beer battered cod). Like a fine wine, Dexters Friday specials have grown more complex and nuanced over time, but somehow managed to keep the traditional aspects alive while evolving to meet the demands of the modern Fish going public.
I rolled into Dexters for a quick one since I was due in Door County by 4pm and still had some packing to do. As the doors swung open at 11, I confidently strode through, grabbed at spot at the refurbished bar, and had the first order of the day in. Of course, since I was the one to break the seal, everything was ready in the blink of an eye and served too hot to even handle (just as Id anticipated).
As you know, we love the freshwater options at Dexters but today we bucked tradition, instead choosing to be the modern man. Mr. Robotos plate of cod looked like something out of a Fish Fry guide; it was piled high with plump pieces of fish, a big old heap of waffle fries, and all the rest of the usual suspects. The three chunks of fish were nothing if not massive. Each one constituted a whole handful, and although they were beefy, they were still light and flaky. This juxtaposition of size versus density was achieved mostly through Dexters incredibly light beer batter which is every bit as tasty as it is delicate. When the celestial coating is paired with the pristine cod the true essence of the modern Fish Fry comes alive.
Complimenting the cod perfectly was a side of Dexters house-made tartar. The whipped delight was thick and zesty, and bumped the cod up yet another notch.
A bevy of waffle fries canoodled with the cod, and while they arent as traditional as say, potato pancakes, they are a modern Fish Fry lovers dream. This batch was plentiful and tasty, with a little spice, but nothing overpowering (as the garlic-chili fries often are).
Over time Friday Fish has evolved to include a dinner roll instead of the more traditional rye bread. While the bleached starch may be appealing to a wider audience, it is less customary and less healthy for you. Dexters once prescribed to these white bread ways, but recently took it back to the old school. As of this writing Dexters has turned back to the true essence of the Fish Fry, and is now featuring a half-slice of rye that actually pairs pretty well with their vinegar-based onion-y coleslaw.
It is truly exciting to see our local Fish Fry establishments representing the best that traditional Fish Fry has to offer while still embracing the modern masses. Overall, we highly recommend the cod at Dexters as well as all their freshwater options. This is a case where you just cant lose regardless of if you take it traditional or have moved to the modern. Dexters does it all.
www.dexterspubmadison.com/
301 North Street
Madison, WI 53704
(608) 244-3535
