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Fish Type: Cod     Price: $11.00

Overall, I would highly recommend this Fish Fry.

Fish Score: Good
Potato Score: Excellent
Tartar Score: Excellent
Bread Score: Excellent
Miscellaneous Score: Good

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Comment: Dexter’s Pub is amazing and maddening all at the same time. It’s amazing because of the variety of delicious fish available and maddening because you can only choose one of the outstanding options any given Friday. It’s always a tough decision to make and one I struggle with each and every time.

This trip was no different and despite the fact that I adore the bluegill, love the lake perch, and swoon over the walleye I forced myself to order the Bering Sea Cod because I hadn’t had it for so long. The cod is the cheapest of school coming in at $11 and since I was the first order of the day the oil was smoldering hot and fried it fast.

As expected, the cod was good, although surprisingly greasy. It was actually a bit of a grease bomb and although the ooze seeped all the way through the batter it didn’t destroy it. The fish itself was flaky and pure and while the batter was a tad thick, it had a great flavor which enhanced the flaky meat. It was bolstered even further by the homemade tartar sauce which is a nearly perfect mix. After their encounter the sheen of the remnant oil danced on the skin of the sultry sauce, not unlike a recent photo of a certain Kardashian sister. It dazzled the eyes and the taste buds causing an almost preternatural instinct to scoop it up by fish, by finger, or by whatever means available. It was alluring, it was intoxicating, it was the essence of the Fish Fry.

Staying with the sauce, it comes in a 2 oz. cup which is more than adequate for the freshwater fish, but comes up short on the three beefy pieces of cod. When fish is a little greasy it begs for tartar and by piece three its wishes went unfulfilled making the last few bites slightly less desirable.

Dexter’s sides are a force to be reckoned with and the garlic-chili fries brought the goods today. The shoestring cuts make an ideal foundation for the blend of throaty garlic and peppy chili oil resulting in a great flavor combo that lasts and lasts. It is a massive portion of spuds, and I do mean MASSIVE.

A thick half-slice of real rye really beefs things up as well, and while Dexter’s has had a ticket to rye for years now this rendition was a solid step up from the thin slab of yesterday.

The same old oniony and pungent slaw finished things off and while its so-so solo it pairs perfectly with the stanky rye.

Dexter’s is just one of those places that has it all figured out. They make great fish, have stellar sides, and fill things out in all the right ways without cutting corners to do so. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry and have no qualms about calling it one of the best in town.

Read more about Dexter’s in our article on Eater.com! - The Definitive Guide to Fish Fry in South-Central Wisconsin



www.dexterspubmadison.com/
301 North Street
Madison, WI 53704

(608) 244-3535