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Fish Type: Cod     Price: $13.00

Overall, I would recommend this Fish Fry.

Fish Score: Good
Potato Score: Good
Tartar Score: Excellent
Bread Score: Good
Miscellaneous Score: Good

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Comment: After I have a bang-up Fish Fry at a place I usually like to come back a few weeks later and see if they can repeat the performance. Consistency really counts when it comes to Fish Fry and the best of the best can do it week after week without missing a beat. On our last trip to Alchemy I was blown away at the quality and uniqueness of their Fish Fry, but this time around was a slightly different story. I’m glad I came back.

As is now the norm, Alchemy was packed even though we showed up late (8:15ish). We had a group of four (which is probably about as many as you’d want to try to bring on a Friday night), and were subject to an hour-long wait in orbit around the bar. Luckily for us, we were in good company and the time passed quickly. We eventually got one of the prime tables in the front window and it went from there.

The fish arrived about 15 minutes after we ordered, and was hot but not steaming. While it looked stunningly similar to the magnificent cod we had last trip it had a few flaws that were not present previously. At least two of the four large pieces were over-fried which caused the batter to get hard in spots. These firm zones coincided with areas where the cod underneath was on the thin side, which is what you’d expect to see. The two other pieces were better, but the batter wasn’t unique and the cod was nowhere near as pristine as our last visit. Perhaps it was just the fact that it was nearing the end of the evening and they were losing focus, but the fish was off and everyone noticed. One of my less desirable pieces even had fryer basket indentations! You really gotta keep them boys movin’ in there…

Radiating out from the hub of cod were the rest of the Alchemy’s signature sides, led by their eponymous fries. While the well-known fries were good, the portion was small and not hot enough. Argh.

The coleslaw contingent was also on the scant side, with the visually pleasing fusion comprising a mere two bites (and no, that is not an exaggeration - two bites). It was gone in a flash (if it was ever really even there???). Bolstering the lineup to a minimal degree was Alchemy’s infamous “Pac-man” roll which, while hearty and delicious, hardly makes up for so little slaw and fries.

At this point a terrible tartar sauce could easily have sunk the ship since the Alchemy Fry was taking on water quickly. Luckily, a serious swashbuckler of a sauce stepped in and saved the day with a spicy flavor and some serious kick. Alchemy’s signature tartar isn’t traditional, but works perfectly with the cumin-infused coating on the cod. The chipotle-looking concoction bailed water like a mother and saved our sinking schooner with grace.

Fish Fry is a finicky mistress and even one bad plate can be enough to turn patrons off forever (we Wisconsonites are a stubborn lot dontcha know?). Luckily, I’ve had enough fish at Alchemy that even a couple bad pieces don’t necessarily spoil the lot. Overall, we still recommend this Fish Fry and believe they have a recipe for success. At this point they just need to continue hone their craft until every plate is as good as the one I had the last time. I bet our next one will be...



alchemycafe.net
1980 Atwood Avenue
Madison, WI 53704