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Fish Type: Cod     Price: $12.00

Overall, I would highly recommend this Fish Fry.

Fish Score: Excellent
Potato Score: Excellent
Tartar Score: Excellent
Bread Score: Poor
Miscellaneous Score: Good

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Comment: Fish Fry is about more than just fish. Certainly, the meal itself is the basis for a get-together, but the people you spend it with are every bit, if not more important than the food you eat. Of course, it is possible to have a great Fish Fry all by your lonesome, but it’s always better when you have good friends to share the experience with. When my friend Brown said he was going to be in town and wanted to get dinner somewhere “near the east side,” one place immediately jumped to the front of my fish obsessed mind.

We first visited Buck & Honey’s not all that long ago, and were thoroughly impressed, save for the lack of bread (we’ll get deeper into that later). Since Sun Prairie is practically “near east” I figured that the instantly-established establishment was a good bet impress. When Brown rolls into town people seem to come out of the woodwork, and when a few of our other friends told us they were up for a Fry this Friday, I knew I had a treat in store for them as well. We agreed that 7:30 would be a good time to partake in the frying of fish, and called Buck & Honey’s to make a reservation (unlike most places, B&H will actually take a reservation on Fridays if you have a big enough party – total bonus).

The Mrs. and I rolled in a little early to “anchor” our party, which we did successfully, procuring a couple stools at the crowded bar and a general area around them. No sooner had one of the wonderful bartenders placed a honey martini and a Spotted Cow in our hands than we caught a glimpse of greatness. No, it wasn’t Buck & Honeys Fish Fry that snagged our gaze, but none other than a true Wisconsin icon… Barry Alvarez himself. We sat in the ADs company for about five minutes when suddenly the hostess came calling, our name the one that passed her lips. It was only 7:20 and the rest of our party had not yet arrived so our premature summoning was less than ideal. We diverted the hostess, and eventually, at exactly 7:30, the last of our clique rolled in. Unfortunately, by this point our table had been given away in the shuffle, possibly to Mr. Barry Alvarez & friends (at least that’s what I’m telling myself) who disappeared shortly after we were beckoned. We were resigned to waiting for a bit, which at Buck & Honey’s wasn’t really that big of a deal.

The intermission passed quickly, and another table opened up for us in about 10 minutes. The hostess escorted our party of seven to the “Bird Room,” gave us some menus, and pranced away leaving us to our devices. A few moments later our waitress arrived, and immediately started jotting down order after order of Fish Fry. Out of our seven diners, four went for the standard cod Fish Fry, one for the baked cod, one for the $21 walleye, and one for a veggie entree. Anticipating split checks would be necessary our savvy server kept each order separate and tacked on additional drinks as necessary – well played.

About 15 minutes passed from the moment our waitress left, until the food made its way back to us. The fried fish came first, and I did what I could to restrain myself from diving in until everyone at the table had a similar setting in front of them. This attempt at restriction met with minimal success as I could not help but pop a fry or two. Once I did get my hands on the cod, the phenomenal fish did not last long. The unblemished cod was pure white, incredibly flaky, and clearly well-trimmed. It was partnered with a superb batter, which was a little spicy and incredibly delicious. The mild batter blended effortlessly with the smooth cod, creating a near-perfect flavor combo. Even though you only get two pieces they are larger than average, and equated to roughly a Wilson’s 3-piece worth of meat. This portion was a bit on the small side, and left me longing for another piece (or two) once I destroyed what I had.

The $12 2-piece comes with a vast amount of potato options and this Friday B&H was pushing the hash browns. Unfortunately, no matter how good they claimed the shreds to be, there was simply no way I was going to order them, what, with Bucks home-cut fries on the chopping block as well. Perhaps I should have branched out and tried the shredded spuds, but I am a fry-guy. Luckily, I was allotted a taste from someone who gave in to the pressure and they were very good, however, I still feel I made the right choice as the French fries were well salted, and literally as close to perfection as you are going get. Mi amor.

The small cup of tartar that joined the dance was also right on the money, and the waitress had no problem wrangling up a couple extras for those at the table that desired it. Often times you would find yours truly in that group, but I knew that I’d have no problem making my cup last through the two flaky fillets of fish. What’s more, the cod was so well done that it didn’t really even need the sauce, which is extremely rare to see, and speaks to the majesty that is the B&H Fish Fry.

Capping of the meal was another homemade goody, this time in the form of coleslaw. This creamy concoction boasted a near perfect blend of cabbage and mayo which resulted in an outstanding mixture. Likewise, the ginger slaw, which we were allowed to substitute if requested, had a flavor all its own and was no less delicious. Keep in mind this coming from a man who loathes ginger.

Now, you can call me an asshole, or tell me to shove it if you must, but there is an unwritten rule that Fish Fry is to come with some sort of bread - it is just the fact of the matter. While traditionally it would be salted rye, I will take just about anything. What I won’t accept is absolutely nothing, which, unfortunately, is what Buck & Honey’s is giving you – nada. Is this Fish Fry still recommendable without bread? Sure. Would they be flirting with the Top 10 status with a simple white roll? I think they would… just sayin’.

As we were finishing up pretty much everyone remarked about their various dishes, and how great each one was. All the Fish Fry eaters indicated that it was easily some of the best cod they had ever eaten, while Katie agreed that the baked cod (which comes with a special sauce, in lieu of drawn butter) was superb as well. The lovely Mrs. Hanewicz allowed me to try her pan-fried walleye, and it was outstanding. It basically melted in your mouth (as our waitress claimed it would), but I wouldn’t call it a “Fish Fry” per se. True, it was fried, but it was drizzled with the same sauce as the baked cod, and not very plentiful. The single small fillet was great, but at $21, I don’t think I could justify ordering it.

You know you are doing something right when you get local celebrities like Barry Alvarez in your establishment, and what’s good for Barry & Friends, is good for MFF & Friends. Overall, this is a great Fish Fry, and one we will come back to time and again. The cod is above reproach, the fries are some of the best we’ve ever had, and the tartar is the keystone that holds it all together - the Holy Trinity of Fish Fry is well represented by Buck & Honey’s. The killer coleslaw rounds out the meal as well as it can, but the lack of bread really does leave a hole that is impossible to fill without some sort of starch. There is no doubt that Buck & Honey’s is putting out a great Fish Fry, and one that you simply have to try for yourself. Bread or not, they just get the job done, and that is really all there is to it.



www.buckandhoneys.com
804 Liberty Road
Sun Prairie, WI 53590

(608) 837-3131