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Fish Type: Cod     Price: $9.75

Overall, I would highly recommend this Fish Fry.

Fish Score: Excellent
Potato Score: Excellent
Tartar Score: Excellent
Bread Score: Good
Miscellaneous Score: Good

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Comment: Sometimes a great Fish Fry pops up in the strangest of places. We all expect outstanding fish at the supper club or our favorite tavern but rarely do we expect much, if anything, from a bowling alley. Bowling alleys are for bowling not for eating after all, right? There’s just no way a cook at a bowling alley could care enough about the dining room to make a good Fish Fry is there? Maybe there is…

Schwoegler’s Sugar River Lanes is way out in Belleville, but those up for the drive will be rewarded with a tasty Fish Fry at a great price. For under ten bucks diners can choose from beer battered, baked, or Cajun cod or get fancy with a shrimp & cod combo. We sampled the beer battered and the Cajun and were pleased with both offerings.

Good beer battered cod starts with (as you might imagine) a good beer batter, and this is. It’s clearly a special recipe that plenty of thought went into. It’s dark and smoky with a really delectable flavor reminiscent of the Tip Top Tavern in Madison or the Hooterville Inn in Blue Mounds. The three pieces aren’t huge, but aren’t skimpy either, and thankfully those with big appetites can add more for $2.50 a piece (which I would probably do next time around). The Cajun cod was equally good if not even better. While it was baked, it was a far cry from the typical boring broiled loins sprinkled with paprika. It was robust and dynamic and could easily be eaten with or without the drawn butter that accompanied it.

While standard crinkle-cut fries are available I had a feeling the homemade cheesy hash browns were the way to go and I was right. They were rich and creamy and clearly head and shoulders above the other options.

Partnering with the cod was a plain-looking tartar with a complex taste. While it looked like straight mayo it had a hint of relish and a sweet tinge that brought out the smoky flavor of the cod even further.

A small slice of fresh French bread rode atop the cod like a white knight aboard a dark stallion. While it was just bread it was just enough. The scoop of slaw on the side had a nice hint of horseradish to go along with its creamy texture.

Schwoegler’s Sugar River Lanes shows that a great Fish Fry can show up just about anywhere as long as you’re willing to look for it. The cod was great, the sides were thoughtfully prepared, and the price was definitely right. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry and will definitely try to strike out at Sugar River again.



sugarriverlanes.com
807 River Street
Belleville, WI 53508

(608) 424-3774