Fish Type: Cod Price: $13.00
Overall, I would recommend this Fish Fry.
|Fish Score: Good|
Potato Score: Good
Tartar Score: Good
Bread Score: Excellent
Miscellaneous Score: Excellent
Comment: It can take a while for a new restaurant to find its groove and that is especially true when it comes one of Wisconsin's most sacred traditions - the Friday Night Fish Fry. The original Stamm House was lauded for being one of the finest Fish Frys in Dane County for years and when 1847 opened in its place they had a rather large reputation to live up to. They attempted to recapture the original Stamm magic with a local whitefish Fish Fry which for one reason or another fell flat. After a few years of floundering (no pun intended) they scrapped the slimy whitefish for the more traditional cod and from the looks of things it's already paying dividends.
The revamped Fish Fry goes for a reasonable $13 and is comprised of three petite pieces of the aforementioned cod. These are well-prepared pieces which start with a pure and flaky fillet. From there a light beer batter is applied and fried until it's golden brown. Like the best batters, it's not hefty and ours didn't get greasy. It also had a pleasant flavor with a subtle smoky undertone. By and large it was excellent with the only problem being the size of the pieces. While there were three of them the they probably didn't even quite add up to the weight of most place's 2-piece.
A marked improvement in the fish didn't mean the same for the fries as the skin-on Julienned potatoes were s surprisingly plain. They were still plenty enticing, and this is the kind our kid adores, so I can't complain too much. Some house-made tartar tagged along with the fish and while it wasn't runny, it wasn't clingy either. It was more of a scooper than a dipper, but the light zip and sweet flavor let the fish star.
The slaw was also surprisingly simple, and about as inoffensive as slaw gets. It was easy to eat, but hard to love, and just kind of an add-on. A nice basket of very warm French bread was anything but ordinary however. The slab was cut 3/4 of the way through and melted any butter that graced its steamy surface on contact. It was a great opening act, whether you were eating fish or not.
1847 definitely figured something out here, and while it's not a unique Fish Fry anymore I'll wager they sell 10x more of it than the whitefish. And hey, if you're feeling more adventurous there is still walleye and lake perch on the everyday menu, and while both are cost prohibitive, the walleye is apparently a whole fish...that's two fillets! That's a lot of meat... Overall, we recommend this Fish Fry and think 1847 is finally earning back some of that original Stamm House swagger.
6625 Century Avenue
Middleton, WI 53562