Fish Type: Cod Price: $12.00
Overall, I would highly recommend this fish fry.
| Fish Score: Excellent French Fry Score: Good Tartar Score: Good Bread Score: Good Miscellaneous Score: Excellent |  |
While some places can get by only doing the Big 3 well, it takes a special kind of place to get all 5 of these elements in perfect balance. That said, there is also a 6th, unspoken element that resides in the ambiance and the service provided. It is these non-tangible elements that further separate those places that only have great food from those with that also offer a great experience. Skip Zach’s Avenue Bar has the 6th sense.
We rolled into The Avenue at 7:30 after a failed attempt to hit up the Jovian Taphaus (permanently closed), and were pleasantly surprised by the short 15 minute wait. Usually if you show up at the ‘Nue around this time you can expect to wait at least an hour, but for some reason, this Friday, we had no trouble (hell, we even got stools at the bar while we waited – total score). We barely had time to get a sip or two off our beers before the waitress called our party, and escorted us to one of the big circular tables in the corner of the dining room. We were sittin’ pretty.
Anyone who has been to the Avenue knows the drill, but for those of you who don’t here is a recap. The prize pig is the beer battered cod, while less delectable perch and walleye options round out its court. All of the fish choices are available on the everyday menu, so if you don’t want to brave the Friday crowds, you don’t have to. They also offer a “Door County Fish Boil” but that just ain’t for me; I’m here for the fried fish. As per usual I opted for the $12 2-piece cod and chose Clam Chowder as my side over an equally tempting house salad.
The Clam Chowder came before the meal, along with basket of pre-packed dinner rolls. The Chowder was pretty creamy and tasted really good. It had plenty of clam, which was a nice departure from some of the Clam-less Chowders I have had recently. The rolls were fresh and moist, but little more than a placeholder to tide us over. The bread and soup did well enough, and within 20 of ordering our fish was upon us.
As I grabbed my first of two cod pieces it was immediately apparent that something was amiss. The cod used to be cut into large cube shaped pieces, and while these chunks hinted at cube-ness they were much more amorphous. When tasted, a similar unfamiliarity was noted. The cod we have enjoyed previously at The Avenue was rich, creamy, and almost transcendent. This time around the cod was still good, but not otherworldly. The beer batter was acceptable, but was lacking some of the complexity we have come to expect. The batter was a little dark and crispy which leads me to believe it was slightly over fried. Overall, it was still very good as the fish was light and flaky, although not perfectly preened. Is The Avenue cutting corners by not trimming their fish like they used to? I’m not sure, but it seems likely.
The fries were also a little subpar when put up against the precedent The Avenue has set. They were basically just straight up skin-on potatoes, cut in house, and fried. While they were very “supper clubby,” they weren’t really anything spectacular.
Matching the fries was the tartar sauce which was good, but not outstanding like we have come to expect. The small portion was not even enough to outlast the two pieces of fish. Our friend Paco asked for an additional serving, but by the time it arrived he was just about through with his meal. Speaking of which, the service this trip was kind of odd in general. Our waitress was clearly and old pro, but for some reason everything was just a step slow. This scenario played out repeatedly: you would ask for something (like a tartar refill), she would gallop of to get it and you would assume she would be right back. A few minutes later, when you were really craving it, and assuming she had forgotten it, but just before you were ready to get annoyed that she wasn’t back with it, she would show up with the item in hand, seemingly out of nowhere. It was really weird, but by and large, she did a good job and didn’t forget a thing except for the quick turnaround.
Usually when a place gives you a soup/salad option the coleslaw falls by the wayside, but The Avenue gives you a hearty dose of their raw tasting slaw too. While I can’t say the ultra-cabbage-y goo suited my palate it was nice that it was included.
This trip to the Avenue turned out to be a bit of a mixed bag, however, it is damn near impossible not to recommend, even if a few elements were slightly off. The fish was good, but not quite the “Best of Madison” as we have come to expect. The fries and tartar were underwhelming, but adequate, as were the rolls and slaw. When you put the whole thing into perspective, it really does add up to be greater than the sum of its parts. Sure, nothing really blew me away, but when you take into account that all five pieces of the puzzle are in place, it is clear that even a down trip at the Avenue constitutes a classic Wisconsin Fish Fry, and that is really what it is all about – good food, good friends, and good times.
avenuebarmadison.com/
1128 E. Washington Avenue
Madison, WI 53704
(608) 257-6877
