Fish Type: Ocean Perch Price: $9.25
Overall, I would barely recommend this Fish Fry.
| Fish Score: Good Potato Score: Good Tartar Score: Excellent Bread Score: Good Miscellaneous Score: Good |  |
Comment: Times are tough. The cost of fish is up, but paychecks are not. People still want their Fish Fry, but simply cant pay more for it. Establishments want to give them that fish, but certainly cant do it at a loss. Whats one to do? In the case of Nicks you pull a fast one well, maybe not a fast one per se, but you make a subtle switch and hope no one notices it. We did
We have been fans of Nicks for some time now and thought their lake perch special was one a heck of a deal coming in under 10 bucks. It had been a while since our last visit to the State Street mainstay, and since that time something has changed (although you wont hear Nicks bragging about it). Apparently, the price of the lake perch has shot through the roof (according to a chef friend of mine) and rather than take the risk of raising their price to the necessary $12 or so to keep the lake lovers happy, Nicks has chosen to jump ship and take a chance with the ocean option. However, you wont see the term Ocean advertised anywhere it is now simply billed as: Perch - $9.25. Most people dont notice the change, I assume.
While the two distinct fish varieties share the name perch that is about where the similarities end. They taste dramatically different, have different textures, and even smell different when fried. While OP is fine if done right, it rarely, if ever, holds a candle to its freshwater brethren; in fact, even bad lake perch is often better than good ocean perch. In short, OP is no LP.
Before the fish Nicks treats you to their homemade Greek soup, sesame seed rolls, and stank-tacular slaw. The soup was good, kind of milky-looking with a little bit of a sour aftertaste. Like the hamburger bun turned roll, it was inoffensive and a nice precursor to the upcoming plate of fried delights. The coleslaw on the other hand was offensive to each and every sense, but in a way that was oh-so-good. This stuff is a knock-down drag-out body-slammer, with a pungent vinegar blast that is not for the faint of heart (or of sensitive taste bud). While I had no trouble crushing the whole cup, the creamy coleslaw lovers at the table couldnt handle to potent punch, and quickly pushed it aside. Nicks slaw is clearly not for everyone.
The fish came quickly thereafter and was hot as can be. After the soup, rolls, and slaw beforehand all that was left for the finale were three big pieces of fish, a small side plate of fries, and cup of tartar. While I would still much prefer the lake perch of yesteryear, the ocean perch was really good. The fillets were thick and meaty, without being overly fishy tasting. They sported a light and crumbly breading that really stood up well to the perch without overwhelming it.
Following the fish was a Spartan portion of beer battered fries which were delicious and crispy. The perfectly cooked potatoes were simply superb with the only downfall being their scant numbers. Nicks tartar was, and always has been, right on the money. It is the consummate sauce that is thick and creamy, just as it was meant to be.
What can you say? Nicks is a cool place, and must be doing something right to be where they have been for all these years. Clearly they have a formula which involves keeping everything in moderation, especially prices. While I cant say I blame them, and they actually pulled off the ocean perch transition pretty well, I would still rather pay a little more for the real deal. Overall, we still recommend the perch Fish Fry at Nicks, but cant help but feel a little something has been lost.
nicksrestaurantmadison.com
226 State Street
Madison, WI 53703
(608) 255-5450
